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Soil Water
AGPR201 13 14 Soil Water Potential
How to Get Rid of Standing Water in Your Yard
You are welcome to use this article on your website or in your
newsletter as long as you reprint it as is, including the
contact information at the end. Website URLs must be active
links. You are welcome to use this article with an affiliate
link, http://www.freeplants.com/resellers.htm
Do you have one or more areas in your yard that hold water after
a rainfall? This is a common problem, and sometimes difficult to
solve. Over the years I've talked with dozens of people trying
to battle this problem, and on several occasions I have been
hired to solve the problem. So what can be done? Too often
people come to me asking what kind of a tree, or what kind of
shrubs can be planted in a wet area to dry it up. This is the
wrong approach. Most plants, and I mean almost all plants are
not going to survive in an area where the soil is soggy for
extended periods of time. The roots need to breath, and planting
a tree or shrub in a water area will kill it. Another common
approach is to try and fill the area with topsoil. Depending on
a variety of variables, this can work, but many times adding
additional soil to a wet area will only shift the water to
another area just a few feet away. If you are lucky enough to
have some natural fall to your property, or a drainage ditch
nearby, this problem is easy enough to solve. If you happen to
live in an area that was developed over the past few years,
there might even be a system to remove storm water nearby. In
many new home developments I've seen stormwater catch basins
already installed in backyards. Trust me, this is a good thing.
There is nothing worse than having a soggy yard all the time.
If you are fortunate to have some fall to your yard, or a
stormwater system that you can drain water into, this problem is
easy to solve. Make sure you check with your local officials
before you do anything at all with a storm drain.
All you have to do is go to your local building supply center
and buy some 4" perforated plastic drain pipe. The best kind for
this purpose is the flexible kind that comes in 100' rolls. This
type of drain pipe has small slits all around the pipe. These
slits allow water to enter the pipe so it can be carried away.
Just dig a trench from the center of the low area you are trying
to drain, to the point that you intend to drain it to. Using a
simple line level you can set up a string over top of the trench
to make sure that your pipe runs downhill all the way. A line
level is a very small level that is designed to attach to a
string. Any hardware stores sells them for just a couple of
dollars. Set the string up so it is level, then measure from the
string to the bottom of your trench to make sure you have
constant fall. You should have 6" fall for every 100' of pipe.
The highest point is going to be the area that you are trying to
drain, so you only want your pipe deep enough at this point so
it can be covered with soil. Once the trench is dug just lay the
pipe in. At the highest end of the pipe you'll need to insert a
strainer into the end of the pipe to keep soil from entering the
pipe. Cover the pipe with some washed stone, and then backfill
the trench with soil. The washed stone creates a void around the
pipe so that the water can find its way into the pipe.
Washed stone is usually inexpensive stone that has been washed
so it is clean and free of mud. The only part of the pipe that
needs to be exposed is the low end, where the water exits the
pipe. Do not put a strainer in that end. If you do not have
anywhere that you can drain the water to, you still might be
able to do something. But first consider what is happening, and
why the water is standing where it is. Even if you have well
drained soil, water cannot soak in fast enough during periods of
heavy rain, and it runs across the top of the ground and
eventually finds the lowest point, and either leaves the
property, or gets trapped. If you have well drained soil, the
trapped water usually soaks in. If you have heavy clay soil, the
water lays there, and the soil underneath becomes very
compacted, and the problem compounds itself. The more water that
stands, the worse the drainage gets. What I have done in areas
like this, where there is standing water, but nowhere to drain
it to, is to install a French drain system that actually carries
the water away from the low area, and allows it to seep into the
ground over a larger distance, where the soil is not quite so
compacted. To install this French drain system you do everything
exactly as explained above, except instead of draining the water
to a lower area, you can send it in any direction you like. Even
in the direction from which it came, which is uphill. When
installing this type of system, it's a good idea to dig a number
of shorter trenches, all heading away from the area where the
water stands. Using the line level, make sure your trenches fall
away from their point of origin so once the water enters the
pipes it will flow away from the wet spot. What is going to
happen is that during times of heavy rain the low area is still
going to trap water, but much of that water is going to seep
into the drain pipes and eventually leach into the soil under
each trench. Because this soil has not been compacted by the
standing water and the baking sun, it will accept the water. It
won't happen nearly as fast as if you could just drain the water
to a ditch, but at least you will have a mechanism in place that
will eventually disperse the water back into the soil. It's a
lot easier to leach 200 gallons of water into a series of
trenches that total 100 lineal feet, than it is to expect that
water to leach into a 10' by 10' area that is hard and compact.
Michael J. McGroarty is the author of this article. Visit his
most interesting website, http://www.freeplants.com and sign up
for his excellent gardening newsletter. Article provided by,
http://gardening-articles.com
About the Author
Michael J. McGroarty has more than 30 years experience in the
landscape gardening/nursery industry. He's spent the better part
of his life on his hands and knees in the dirt working with
plants and his hands-on experience allows Mike to write in a
manner than many gardeners find to be helpful and beneficial.
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Frequently Asked Questions...
what intelligent questions should i ask a soil and water conservationist in an interview?
i want to sound smart and its a class project to contact a soil and water conservationist. also, can someone give me a number for a soil and water conservationist, it can be anywhere in the united states
Answer:
1. Why do you think it's important to protect key environmental resources, like water and soil?
2. In a natural disaster what are some ways we can keep our drinking water clean?
3. What are some of the major ways that humans degrade the quality of soil and water? How can this be prevented?
4. What are some of the major ways that people waste water? What are some things that I can change about my everyday life/routine to help conserve water?
5. What are some of the important things that soil does for the environment?
6. What kind of field work to do you as part of your job?
7. Should we be concerned about running out of potable water in the near future?
I would encourage you to change up the wording to make it sound more professional that what I have put down.
I don't know if you could call the EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) and ask them if they have people that work as soil and water conservationists. Worth a try though. http://www.epa.gov/
Hope this helps!
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